At first glance, you are likely to mistake it for the emblem of the Islamic Republic of Iran. Given its remarkable similarity you would probably be even forgiven for this travesty of sorts! Only a closer inspection will unfurl the differences between the religious insignia of the SIKH faith and that of Iran, like the absence of the tashdid in the former. As an Indian voyager, ambling along NOUR MOHAMMADI Street in Tehran and seeking to rediscover Indo-Iranian links, the resemblance struck me as a perfect example of how deep and yet subtle the relationship between India and Iran is.

Known popularly as MASJID-E HIND, the gurudwara (the equivalent of a mosque for Sikhs with their characteristic turbans) has been the key common ground, perhaps with the exception of the Indian embassy, in the lives of Indians living in Tehran, many of them non-Sikhs. Having arrived in this city in large numbers (over 500 families) during the reign of the Shah, mainly professionals, they gradually dwindled after the revolution to only about a hundred. Only those with established businesses, like that of auto spare parts, remained here.

Those I spoke to generously acknowledged the benevolence of the Iranian people and were even proud to assert their "Iranianness", speaking of Indian youngsters who served in the Iranian army and those who have adopted an Iranian citizenship. The fact that they speak fluent Farsi would be stating the obvious. One even spoke of a public bathhouse called HAMAM-E HINDIA that was reportedly built near Tehran for the Sikh warriors who fought for the British in World War II.

If you want to experience a slice of India in this city, there is no better place than the gurudwara where you can hear a variety of Indian languages and where on certain days they serve you chai made the Indian way with milk (and sugar added into it!) and pakodas (deep-fried potatoes that are coated with chickpea flour). They even have a langar (communal meal) on specified dates.

But then this is not the only place where you can sense India. I was overwhelmed by the popularity of Hindi films, more so in the south of Tehran. Each time I would cross a newsstand, I would pore over the surprisingly numerous magazines that dedicate their covers to Indian stars. I even managed to spot a Farsi translation of the screenplay of Mother India, a landmark Indian Hindi film of yesteryear, at one of the roadside bookstalls! And armed with a scant vocabulary of the Farsi language, on many occasions my conversation with many Iranians inevitably veered to Bollywood and reeling off names of stars like {Amitabh Bachchan}, {Salman Khan} and {Aishwarya Rai}. Just those names would establish the link between us!

I also bumped into India as my search began to find some good Iranian headscarves to take back home as souvenirs. Nearly all that I set my eyes on turned out to be Indian ones! Was it because of the familiar designs that I was attracted to them? Maybe yes. The few Iranian women I have had the chance to interact with told me that Indian scarves are the current rage in town these days. So much for my scarf shopping in Iran! I might as well now do it in the Jaipur's enigmatic bazaars.

Another familiar sight as an Indian were the numerous sleek BAJAJ Pulsar bikes and Bajaj scooters that seem to be popular with Iranians. (Bajaj is one of the leading two-wheeler manufacturers back in India.) And while we are on the subject of traffic, let me tell you how terrified I was coming to Tehran because of what I had read about how violent traffic in this city can get. But then I forgot that this subject only came up in reports by westerners. Indian writers barely make any mention of it. After I landed here, I found out why - the traffic seems to be well regulated and it, in fact, felt like home where you have to use not just your horn but also your tongue to mouth abuses at an errant driver!

So, where do you think I could and should stop? At the striking similarity between Indian and Iranian handicrafts? At the Iranian guy who played the sitar to go with a patriotic Indian song at the Independence Day function on August 15 at the Indian embassy? At the Zoroastrians who have chosen to come back and settle in Iran - their original homeland?

Perhaps, I will end with a mention of {Manouchehr Mottaki} who has been chosen by {Mahmoud Ahmadinejad} to be appointed as the next Foreign Minister of Iran. Having studied in India and as someone who frequents the country, Mottaki comes across as a strong Indophile with genuine affection for the country and its people. For me, he represents the way Iranians carry India in their hearts and souls. Only if we now could find a way to extend this goodwill into the world of realpolitik and make it work to the best of India's and Iran's interests.

(Ends)    

PS: You will have to excuse me for completely overlooking the numerous Indian restaurants in Tehran. But then I have still not had enough of gormeh-sabzi and khoresth-e fesenjan!