Off of North Mojdeh in NIAVARAN, a vivid red door is the entryway to an out-of-Tehran culinary experience. LOUNGE, as its name promises, is decidedly lounge-like in ambiance, as you step into a high-ceilinged oblong dining space with low lighting and mood-setting music transitioning seamlessly from Cuban jazz to Pink Floyd. The minimalist décor contrasts sleek dark wood and leather upholstery against walls of stark white cut through by a pale horizontal bar of light to continue in brushed chrome. Your immediate impulse upon being seated by a courteous server clad in all-black is to request the chilled martini that would perfectly complement your suddenly extra-Delster loungy feeling.

Actually, the menu does feature a selection of 'Cocktails': try the Mojito, a virginated version of Cuba's famous rum drink mixed with mint, sugarcane, and lemon; or the Caipiranha, if you prefer berry juice to minty lemonade ... Alright, to be fair, much like the list of creative 'smoothies' at Thai Orchid (our former Hilton's new Polynesian restaurant), here too they endeavor to impart at least the concept of ordering aperitifs. The goodwill of this kindhearted gesture is not lost upon the thirsty diner or luncher; and the colorful tonics do play a role in enhancing the sense of the debut stage for a leisurely daytime luncheon or an intimate evening date.

Herein lies the crux of Lounge's "food philosophy" as expressed by the restaurant's creators/owners {Maryam} & {Houman Karimi}, an ex-émigré cousin team who moved back from Copenhagen last summer to realize their vision of adding an upscale newcomer to the recently-revived Tehran dining scene. Their thesis on eating is simple: they believe that good food in good company should be a prolonged affair. Essentially, an art de vivre approach to maximizing enjoyment -- and appreciation -- of the sit-down meal by not rushing (or being made to feel rushed) to conclude it. Think of it as "table therapy." Unwind. Break bread. Gossip maliciously. Philosophize. Blow smoke rings. Live! Love!! Eat!!!, as star chef {Wolfgang Puck} says. Don't, in other words, plough, wolf, shovel, slug, gulp, gobble, hold unintelligible conversation through stuffed mouthfuls, flag down the waiter with your lap napkin, get antsy, bang your spoon against your glass for the bill, leap up and make a mad dash out, etc. And please note that it is immoral to waive dessert, no matter how many belt notches have progressively been loosened throughout the courses. If you linger over coffee and cigarettes long enough, chances favor that your appetite will ask for an encore in the shape of raspberry tiramisu. The point of all these extra calories being that you are keen to spend time sharing a table with whomever it is you're with, naturally.

The Karimis' approach to restauranteering is reflected in their menu that reads like a book with a colorful "chapter" for each course. In fact, it takes time to decide just what to choose. The 'fusion cuisine' is inspired by Euro & Asian accents: e.g., cold and warm appetizers such as (respectively), the bruescette with garlic balsamico dressing or the seasonal carrot ginger soup. Main dishes including a variety of sandwiches, salads, pasta, meat, fish, etc. -- some good choices are the medallion steak with tabula; spaghetti with spiced prawns; Thai green curry; roast beef on foccacia; Caesar Salad (for vegetarians). Desserts change weekly, but are equally decadent anyway. As for prices, it's probably safest to pocket a 50K traveler for a three-course meal (starter, entrée, dessert, beverage(s)) for a party of two, but can be done for less. Service gratuity is not included on the bill; so, don't forget to leave the kind folk of the wet-bar your kind compliments. And if you meet your host and/or hostess, definitely let them have your feedback (get it? hee hee), as they are warm and friendly food lovers whose artful cooking comes with a real respect for The Art of Dining.